Deburring Threads

I'm having problems with burrs on threads.
Here's what I was taught to do, after the thread operation I take a spring pass with the finish turning tool then
another spring pass with the thread tool. I always end up with a burr on the first thread the rest of the threads are clean.
I only have this problem with OD threads.
Is this common?
I would like to hear how you guys deal with this.

Thanks

After the first threading unit I do a Barface instead of a Barout then run the threading tool for a spring pass. I think the Barface does a better job cutting the burr off the first thread.

do a google search (thread higbee) this is easy to do on a integrex

What about clipping the thread start?

Should have mentioned I'm a cam user' don't really think it matters

Integrexman
That makes perfect sense. Simply enough to do, I added it this morning and saw a big improvement.
Very little burr left, cleans up easily.

Rodzilla
I did the search. This sounds good but I'm not sure I can do this without engineering approval.
They're real fussy about threads here. I'll try it when I finish this run and see what they say.

Fooo
I'm not sure what you mean by clipping.

Thanks

If I ever get back on the Integrex I am going to try this.

Clipping (that's what we call it here) is basically a higbee

integrexman
its really very easy once you know where the thread starts . all you need is a XC line out (for external threads) start at a angle and end at a different angle lead in lead out , and of cause a radius based on the thread minor diameter,
it makes the very best thread start I have ever seen


I suggest write a small program , start and finish anywhere you like with the angles and adjust to find the start ot the thread

or

like fooo suggests thread clipping uses a external groove tool
1) write the program to cut the thread
2) write the same program to cut a thread with a grooving tool BUT you only need to go say Z-0.125 and also use 45 degree pull out .
I find this method a pain in the ass to adjust to get just right but once you get it matched up its good



Rodzilla

I just tried to do this with the groove tool method. I agree it's a pain.
I didn't find anything about using an end mill. This must be helical cut.
What about cutter dia.

you really don't need a helical cut you only need to de-buur the very first thread , no more than 90 degrees , so about 1/4 the of the circle/diameter. and no deeper than the first pitch, don't let the endmill cut into the next crest

Actually clipping with a groove tool is quite easy (when you know how to do it); We do it basically on all our threads; Hard to explain though via text

yes its easy in theory but it hard to get the timing right between the thread start point and where the clipping starts and pulls out....

if you know of a easy way please help by trying to explain how you do it.

Thats what i found. It was turning into a guessing game.

Fooo
I hope you can find the time to do it.

This is the method I normally use unless the drawing asks specifically for a blunt start thread. It works very well and is much quicker than milling it on, I normally play with the Z wear offset to get it just right.

moonrayker
yes that's what I have also done in the past, however some times it takes hours to set it up just right .Maybe its just me being a perfectionist.

Rodzilla